Now that I've recovered from traveling, it's time to post some thoughts on my trip to Prague!
First, the Syvertsen "flat" was modern and bright, even on the bleakest of winter days. Several mornings, when it started out sunny and clear, it wasn't long before it turned cold and gray. The week I was there (March 1-8) it was windy and in the 30's, so I'm glad I brought an extra head scarf to wear. Apparently, it's like this only in the winter months as smoke from the buildings and factories gets trapped in the river valley, blocking out the sun. Plus we had some light snow that week too. However, being there with family, especially sunny little Owen, made it cheery.
Prague is a very interesting city, with a lot of history. The first thing that hit me on the way from the airport was the graffiti--it seemed it was everywhere (except the tourist areas.) The buildings looked old (they probably are!) and "unloved." I had to keep reminding myself that it's only been 17 years since they came out of Russian domination and that they've come a long way since then. Laura's neighborhood is Czeck and more upscale than other old neighborhoods, with buildings that are beautifully restored inside and out. Eventually, I can see the whole city improving that way as the Czech Republic continues to awaken to its possibilities.
As for the people, most of them were friendly and polite. A few of the older workers, having been through so much under their oppressors (first the Nazis, then the Soviets) still had an air of hopelessness about them--no smiles, no "Dobry den" (good day) to us at the cash registers in the market, just a drab sort of demeanor. And, by the way, they don't like to make change; so be ready with the exact amount if you have it! Of course, this is only an impression after one visit; and it may be totally different during the warmer months when the sun is shining and life is a little easier. (We'll be finding out in June when Rick and I go for a visit together.) Overall, though, Prague is a friendly city with people who are genuinely helpful. For instance, when we took Owen on the tram in his stroller, people actually ASKED if they could help--try that in New Jersey!
The tourist area is fun to explore, and very safe to walk even late at night. It's a great walking city with much to see. We saw the changing of the guard at the castle during the noon fanfare with its pageantry and marching music. The Charles Bridge had vendors selling souveniers advertised as hand made (I bought a small pen and ink of the castle) and a beautiful view. Laura and I took pictures of each other with the castle in the background. We had a wonderful lunch at a cafe in the Old Town, and then Laura took me off the beaten path to a shop where I was able to buy some Bohemian Crystal at reasonable prices. We also explored some side streets away from the tourist areas.
Public transportation is easy to use and very convenient to Laura's flat. We bought a 7-day pass that allowed me to use trams, buses or metro all week. Just validated my ticket the first day, and I was on my way. My last day there, I explored on my own without getting lost! It was fun trying to converse with the locals on the trams--it seems that sign language and facial expressions work well there! Unlike the market cashiers, there were plenty of smiles and a generally happier atmosphere among the Czechs I met on my excursions.
As for the food, (very important part of any trip) it was much better than I was told to expect. Chris took us out to dinner one night at a French/Czech restaurant where I had pork tenderloin and dumplings served with a rich gravy--delicious! The Czech wine Chris ordered was also very good, a red that was much like a Pinot Noir. For dessert I had a piece of apple cheesecake which was not at all heavy or overly sweet--just the way I like it! Laura gave me a taste of her ham, which was also very good. Another time I had pork with potato croquettes, which were awesome. I don't think Rick will have any trouble getting a good meal in Prague!
Although I'm not a beer drinker, I couldn't resist the Czech beer ("pivo" in Czech.) It's full of flavor, but not as filling as ours. And, oh, oh, oh, the hot chocolate is not to be missed! It's made with molten chocolate, not cocoa powder, and is rich and creamy--yum!
Most of the real sightseeing I saved for June when I return with Rick. Meanwhile, I'm looking forward to seeing Laura, Chris and Owen again--and yes, Mr. Fish. Maybe he'll have a name by then????
As usual, I can't get my pictures to come up; so check back in a day or so for some snapshots!
1 comment:
Tom & I also noticed the graffiti as soon as we entered the city, but Chris was genuinely surprised that we found it so offensive! I think once you have been there for a while, it becomes part of the background scenery.
Even NYC doesn't have graffiti that pervasive!
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